The History and Presence of Egyptian Culture In Jewelry
Jewelry is both an art and form of personal expression that takes multiple forms amongst different cultures. In Western culture, current accessory trends evoke deep roots in Egyptian traditions and mythology.
Two specific elements of Egyptian tradition and culture; the evil eye and turquoise have dominated American and European jewelry designs.
The Evil Eye
This symbol has been cropping up on necklaces and rings recently, with “the specific category of ‘evil eye jewellery’ would see a 58% increase in sales [from 2020]” as reported by Vogue. It’s popularity has transcended everyday wear and has been seen on celebrity figures like Meghan Markle.
I spoke to Perrihan Al-Raffai, an Egyptian economist working at the International Monetary Fund, who crafts jewelry inspired by her heritage.
She said “[When I came to the US] I couldn’t wear something that was too elaborate or sophisticated in design… until, maybe, the last five years or so, I've noticed that bold jewelry is in, very in… there is interest in the ethnic now, that wasn’t really there before.”
This increased popularity of Egyptian trends presents the question, where did this symbol originate from?
The evil eye is a symbol that has origins in ancient Egyptian mythology. The modern symbol is based on the Eye of Horus story. It is said that the mythological god Horus had a brother, Seth, who betrayed him. The betrayal led to Seth stabbing out Horus’ left eye, leaving him partially blind. However, his left eye was later restored by the god, Hathor, because he felt the betrayal was unjust.
That story in hieroglyphics took the form of a far more intricate symbol (Fig. 1) This then proliferated through the Middle East and was used as a sign of protection; people began wearing the symbol as a symbol of protection from evil forces like Seth.
Fig 1. Eye Of Horus in Hieroglyphics | Image Credit Journey to Egypt
The symbol began to spread farther, becoming a well known charm for good luck and fortune. This was later developed into a circular charm by the Greek and Turkish which has become the modern day symbol to represent the Eye of Horus. That good luck charm looks like this (Fig 2.) and originated from Turkey and Greece before it to many other cultures such as Spanish and Japanese interpretations which had their own stories and systems of belief surrounding it.
Fig 2. Modern Evil Eye Symbol | Image Credit Cyprus Paradise
Turquoise
Turquoise jewelry is also coming back into style. Reminiscent of Perri observing the retiring of minimalism in favor of bolder jewelry choices, it was only a matter of time before the precious stone would return in all its colorful glory.
“Besides being beautiful, turquoise historically is believed to be a powerful stone that brings protection and luck,” said Helen Ashikian of the jewelry brand Baby Gold to WhoWhatWear.
With a rise in spirituality and a particular interest in healing crystals,it’s no surprise that turquoise and its positive associations are growing in popularity.
Turquoise was first featured in Egyptian jewelry sometime around 3000 BCE. The Middle East sat on some of the largest turquoise mines in the world which led to the gem becoming one of the region’s main exports until the mid 1900’s; however the impact of the stone on the international jewelry culture did not fade as cotton exports overtook it. Rather turquoise became a staple in Mediterranean and Mediterranean style jewelry internationally.
“There are influences from the Islamic design, but what’s always been there is the blue and the turquoise,” Perri said. I remember even as a child I always and every child or something that was turquoise, either turquoise earrings, a turquoise, you know, necklace or rings or bold bracelets.”
Perri concluded by emphasizing the significance of Middle Eastern culture and history.
“I find it interesting that there is no, for instance, ancient Egyptian revival.”
However, perhaps, it is time for one after looking at the rise of its influence on current trends.
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